EnMart Embroidery Talk

Yesterday I wrote a post about avoiding boredom in life and in machine embroidery  and a scant few hours later I got notification that a series of pictures were waiting to be downloaded.  The pictures were of the falcon jacket that Erich Campbell from Black Duck Inc had created for a Stitches photo shoot.   Unfortunately,  the jacket was not used in the final spread in the magazine,  but Erich is graciously allowing me to share with you the pictures of his work here.  I’m very excited because the design was sewn with EnMart’s colored metallic thread and I think it’s just awesome.

Let’s start with a full back picture,  because I think the full effect of the embroidery is pretty cool.   As far as I know,  all the metallic thread used in this piece was from EnMart.  When Erich first told me about this project,  I offered to send him some of our colored metallic threads to try if he would share pictures of the finished product with us.   I wasn’t expecting anything as elaborate as this.

When you look up close at the design, you really get a sense of the intricacy of what Erich has done.  I can’t imagine the digitizing and work that went into this.  Plus,  sewing something this elaborate with an average metallic thread would give most people heartburn if not actual heart failure.

Erich also managed to incorporate one of my favorite colored metallic threads into the design.  I’m a huge fan of the turquoise metallic,  and Erich used that quite extensively for one of the paisley designs.

I’m quite overwhelmed by what has been created here and it pleases me no end that EnMart products were part of it.  I think everyone who works in the garment decoration business knows that creativity and originality are part of what we do,  but sometimes you need to see something really special to be reminded.   Thank you to Erich for sharing his design with us and for all the time and effort that went into creating it.  Thank you also to his wife,  Celeste Schwartz,  who took the photos that were used in this post.  You can see more of her work here.

When it comes to choosing the proper machine embroidery thread for the job you have in front of you,  there are a lot of choices.  It isn’t only a choice between brands,  it’s also a choice of the type of thread you want to use as different threads produce different effects.   The material used to make the thread can also have an impact on the success of the final design. Machine type may also play a role in the thread you elect to use, many people swear that their machine does not like or will not run well when a certain brand of thread is used. Finally you have to consider the material into which you’ll be sewing.   All of these factors can have an impact on your choice of thread.

Let’s start with the brand of thread you use.   There are a variety of different brands out there,  which are manufactured in a variety of different places and which are sold at many different price levels.   When choosing a brand of thread,  you should investigate a few different things.    The first thing you should do is get a sample of the thread and run it in your machine.  Watch how smoothly it runs.  Keep track of breaks or birdnesting and other thread problems.  Take note of how much time it takes to run a standard design, do you have to slow down the machine for the thread to run its best?  Do you spend a lot of time rethreading your machine after thread breaks?  After you’ve gathered this data,  look at the color and sheen of the thread.  Are the dye lots consistent?  Is the thread redyed?  Finally, keep in mind that cheaper isn’t always the best choice.  Saving money on the original purchase price doesn’t really save you money if you lose production time due to poor quality thread.

Next let’s discuss the effect you want the thread to produce.   If you want embroidery that sparkles,  metallic thread is probably the way to go.   If you want variations in color and shade,  you may want to investigate variegated thread.   Glow in the dark thread is popular during Halloween.   Color changing embroidery thread can be fun on garments that will spend a lot of time in the sun.   Special effect thread is a great way to add a unique accent to your embroidered piece.

You should also keep in mind that you need to make a decision between the two most popular types of machine embroidery thread,  rayon and polyester.    For many years rayon was the thread of choice and , for some people it still is.   One of the reasons that rayon thread was so popular for so many years was the shine the thread produced.   The drawback to rayon thread is that it tends to be less durable and less color and wash fast.   For durability and color fastness, you best choice may well be polyester machine embroidery thread.   There are also polyester threads,  like Iris UltraBrite Polyester,  that have a shine that matches any rayon embroidery thread on the market.

This concludes part one of this discussion.  Next week we’ll cover machine type,  material type,  and a few tips that may help your thread run more smoothly no matter what type or brand you’re using.

I’ve seen it happen over and over again at trade shows.  I’ll be giving people a sample of thread,  or a sample of backing and they’re excited and pleased to receive whatever I offer.  When, however,  I offer a sample of our metallic thread,  some people recoil like I’m offering them a boiled spider on a plate.   “I hate metallic thread”  is a common comment,  or “Metallic thread is such a pain”.  Apparently,  metallic thread is an issue for a lot of embroiderers.

I’m guessing most people have heard the horror stories that tend to accompany metallic thread.   Some people tell of the constant thread breaks.  Others will recount how they had to run their machine at glacial speed to enable the thread to sew.  There are tales of tangles and knots and other horrors.  In the end, each story concludes the same way,  with an emphatic “I hate metallic thread”.

My response to those sort of statements and stories is “You won’t hate our metallic thread”  and, as it happens,  I generally turn out to be right.   Iris Dazzling Metallic thread is designed to run smoothly.  While you do have to slow your machine down slightly,  it doesn’t require that you machine run at snail like speeds in order for the thread to perform well.  EnMart’s  parent company, Ensign Emblem,  runs this thread in all our plants, so we know it runs more smoothly, with less thread breaks and fraying.  We also know it adds a superior sparkle and shine to all your metallic embroidery.

Metallic embroidery thread is a great way to accent a design you particularly want to stand out,  and, with the recent addition of our colored metallic embroidery thread,   you have even more options when it comes to adding color and sparkle to your designs.  If you’ve one of the embroiderers who was sworn off metallic thread,  take Iris Dazzling Metallic thread for a test run and find the cure for the metallic blues.

Over the time I’ve been writing this blog I’ve talked a lot about the durability of Iris thread.  I’ve talked about the fact that it is colorfast and washfast.   If you’ve read this blog for a while,  you’ve certainly read about the strength of the thread,  how it has less thread breaks and has greater tenacity than some other threads on the market.   Iris thread is a quality thread,  made with the finest ingredients and created by a company that has over 50 years experience in making thread.   I’ve probably covered every aspect of the thread except, perhaps, for one, which is this.  Iris Thread is really, really pretty.

Our trade show booth design for this year features what we call the “wall o’ thread” smack dab in the middle of the booth.  The “wall 0′ thread” is simply shelves with cone after cone of thread on them.   We’ve never actually counted,  but in our average booth there are a least a couple hundred cones on display.  It’s quite a sight, and a huge attraction for people passing by the booth.

What stops the people walking by the booth isn’t the strength of the thread.  It isn’t the durability or the tenacity or the washfastness.  What stops those who walk buy is how gorgeous the thread looks.   In essence,  Iris Thread stops people in their tracks with the power of pretty.

Iris UltraBrite Polyester is known for its sheen.  In side by side tests,  many people can’t tell the difference between Iris Polyester and Iris Rayon.   Both have deep rich color and a brilliant shine.    When either thread is used in embroidery,  the result is a garment that pops with color and catches the eye.  What better advertisement for the work of the embroiderer than an embroidered design that makes people look twice?

To request a sample of Iris Rayon or Polyester thread and to put the power of pretty to work for your business, e-mail us at info@myenmart.com  or contact us through any of the methods available.

Reason 1:  Color conversion is not fun – Let’s face it,  matching your existing color card to a new thread can be a lot of work and hassle.   Even if the new thread supplier offers an online conversion engine you still have to select the color numbers of your old thread to get a match.   Plus, sometimes the conversion engine doesn’t supply a match,  and then you have to call the conversion experts who’ve been color matching thread for decades and ask them for help in finding a close color match.   It’s a lot of time and work.

Reason 2: You’ll have to find new uses for the money you save – Your budget for the year is already done,  why would you want to have to readjust all the numbers and columns to reflect the cost savings you’ll experience when you purchase Iris thread?   If that’s not bad enough,  EnMart’s mix and match quantity discount policy means that you can save additional money when you buy as little as 12 cones of thread. You’ll have to find something to do with the extra money.  That requires yet more research and decision making.  Who wants to deal with that?

Reason 3:  Reduced down time means more production time. - Iris thread is durable,  experiences less thread breaks, and runs more smoothly than many other machine embroidery threads.   These qualities make it likely that you’ll have less down time when sewing and experience an increase in production.   More production time means you’ll have to find more jobs to fill that time.   Do you really need more work?

Reason 4:  The thread attracts too much attention -  Whether it’s the vibrant color and sheen of the Iris UltraBrite Polyester or the dazzling glow of our  metallic thread,  Iris threads tend to attract people’s attention.  Really,  who needs more people looking at and admiring their work?

Reason 5: Your work will last and last – Provided it is cared for and washed correctly,  Iris polyester thread is colorfast, wash fast and durable.  It has survived an industrial wash and dry with its color and shine intact,  so it’s sure to survive a home wash and dry.   This means you’ll miss an opportunity to speak with your customers when they stop by to complain about color runs and color fade.   You’ll only be able to talk to them when they tell you how great your work looks,  and all that praise could inflate your ego.

There are a lot of reasons that machine embroiderers choose to use the thread that they use.  Some people use the thread that came with their machine, on the theory,  I would guess,  that the people who sold the machine must know which thread will work best on it.   Other people tend to purchase the thread that has a name they’ve heard,  probably because  they figure a name that’s heard often and seen everywhere must denote a popular thread.   There are those who buy thread based on the advice of friends or colleagues who happen to use and like a particular thread.  Then, of course, there are the people that select the thread they use based on cost,  and who are always looking for a better price per cone.

EnMart, or rather our parent company Ensign Emblem,  has a lot of experience in selecting thread.  Over the 30+ years the company has been in business,  we’ve probably used thread from every major brand.  We have gone through the pain of converting colors from one brand to another.  We’ve dealt with the chaos that comes from discovering that a thread that look great on paper doesn’t work so well in reality.   The company has tried thread based on recommendations from those we know and trust,  and we’ve also looked at thread purely from the standpoint of how much it cost us per cone.   As the years,  and the threads,  have come and gone,  we’ve learned a few things about how to choose and embroidery thread.

The first thing we learned, as has already been mentioned in another blog post, is the high cost of cheap thread.  Saving a couple cents or a couple dollars per cone looks very attractive when all you’re looking at is the actual physical money that isn’t leaving your pocket.  The problem is that they money you save on purchasing the thread is probably going to be lost in overtime costs,  increased production costs and reduced quality of your stitch-outs.  I’m not going to claim that more expensive thread equals better thread,  because that isn’t always the case,  but I will say that thread that’s being sold for just a few dollars probably is that cheap because it didn’t cost much to make, and so may be lacking in quality.

The second thing we learned is that the best way to determine if a thread is right for you is to try it.  Most companies,  EnMart included,  will provide a sample of the thread they sell so that prospective customers can try it.  Samples should be run in the normal environment of your shop on the sorts of jobs you would normally do.  You want to determine if the thread will work in the conditions that will exist during day to day production.

The third and perhaps most important thing we learned is that you need to pay attention to all the characteristics of the thread,  not just one.  Machine embroidery thread needs to be colorfast,  it needs to have good tensile strength, and it needs to run consistently in your machines.     If the thread runs when it gets washed,  or fades quickly, you’ll be getting a lot of orders back from your customers.   If it lacks tensile strength,  you’ll lose a lot of production time fixing thread breaks.   If you get inconsistent results when the thread runs through your machine you’ll have to spend more time watching the machine and more time adjusting the digitizing of your designs and the tension on your machines to adjust to the inconsistencies in the thread.

Obviously,  since we use and sell it,  we think the best thread and the right thread for you is Iris thread and I’m not going to try and be disingenuous and pretend otherwise.   If you’ve met us at a show,  you probably already have a sample of the thread and have hopefully given it a try.  If not,  contact us and we’ll be happy to send you a sample.  We’re confident,  one you try it,  Iris thread will become your machine embroidery thread of choice.

One of the best things about my recent attendance at the DAX Chicago show was the fact that I finally got to see the wall o’ thread in action.  For those who missed it,  the wall o’ thread is one of the main features of the EnMart trade show booth.  In our 10 x 30 booth it is a truly impressive display of the gorgeous color and sheen of Iris thread, but even in a smaller 10 x 20 booth it has an impact.  I can’t tell you how many people were stopped in their tracks by the thread during the show,  and how many more commented at some point “I wish I could take all these colors home”.

We are aware that taking all these colors home might not be in everyone’s budget,  but we’d like you to be able to add as many colors as possible to your thread supply.  In order to assist you in doing just that,  EnMart has created two programs that offer thread discounts.  One is our thread palette collection, which offers groups of related thread colors at a reduced price.    The other is our Dozen Cone Discount program.

The Dozen Cone Discount program is simple.  Put twelve 5500 yard polyester or rayon cones in your cart.   These cones can be any combination of twelve, six cones of one color and six cones of another,  three cones each of four colors,  or one cone of twelve different colors.  The combination and quantity of colors is up to you.   Once you’ve added all the cones to your cart,  simply proceed with your order as you normally would.  Your discount of a dollar a cone will be automatically taken at checkout.

Another way to look at the Dozen Cone Discount is “buy 10, get 2 free”.   The discount program allows you to purchase 12 cones at the cost of 10 cones.     This discount applies to any combination of colors, so you can buy 10 of one color and 2 of another color to make up your discount package.   Our goal is to give you the most flexibility possible, while still passing along a substantial savings.  Our Dozen Cone Discount and our Thread Palettes are designed to do exactly that.

EnMart is proud to announce that we have added colored metallic thread to our metallic thread inventory.  Available in 13 brilliant colors, this thread will add sparkle, shine and color to your embroidery designs.

EnMart Colored Metallics offer the same high quality available from our gold and silver metallic thread.  These threads have a nylon core,  use rice paper for better bonding and stability,  and are undercoated with a silver alloy film.  They are designed to stitch at 1000 stitches per minute.

Some people will tell you that metallic thread can be problematic when it comes to embroidery, and it is certainly possible that some brands of metallic thread can cause problems.   Obviously, we can’t speak for other brands, all we can testify about is our experiences with EnMart metallic threads.    We have seen, time after time, our metallic thread turn people who loathed metallic thread into people who loved sewing with our metallic thread.   If you’ve had problems with metallic thread in the past, give our metallic a try.  Odds are you’ll discover the problem wasn’t metallic thread in general, just the particular thread you’d tried in the past.

Another thing to keep in mind is the fact that metallic thread does require some special techniques if you want to have the best embroidery experience.  Here are some things to remember:

• Use a needle that has been designed to be used with metallic thread
• Be prepared to adjust your tensions
• Slow your machine speed down a bit – Metallic thread is a bit more fragile and may have more issues when the machine is running at higher speeds.

For more tips for embroidering with metallic thread, check out these blog posts:

More Metallic Thread Tips

Tips for Embroidering with Metallic Thread

When I started working for Ensign,  my total knowledge of embroidery extended mostly to thinking it was pretty. At that point I didn’t understand how much work goes into creating an embroidered piece,  how much knowledge and skill are necessary to make the embroidery look as it should, and how much difference having the right thread and supplies could make.   These last four years have been an education in many things, but the lesson that really stands out is the one about the importance of choosing and using the right machine embroidery thread.   The thread is the basis of the whole embroidery pyramid.  If your thread frays or breaks often or if the colors run when the finished garment is washed,  you’ll lose production time,  your peace of mind and ultimately sales.   The decision about which thread to use can be one of the decisions that makes or breaks your business.

Naturally, we think the best answer to the question “which thread should I use?” is Iris thread.  In its 36 years of existence, our parent company, Ensign Emblem,  has run thread from every major manufacturer.  We’ve experienced the production delays that come from thread that breaks and frays.  We know the frustration of creating a great design and then having the customer return the product because the thread colors run when washed.   We’ve also experienced the process of converting from one thread manufacturer’s color palette to another, and totally understand what an obstacle that can be to changing thread suppliers.

After years of running  thread from different suppliers and manufacturers in search of a thread that would work the way we needed it to work, Ensign discovered Iris thread.   At last we found a thread that ran well,  could withstand washing and looked great no matter what design we sewed out.   Finding the right thread made a difference in production, return rates and frustration level.  It made such a difference that Ensign created a company, EnMart, so that other machine embroiderers could benefit from using Iris thread.

If you’re fed up with thread breaks, thread that frays or thread that only runs well when your machine is running very slowly,  we can help.   If  you’re tired of poor customer service,  unresponsive supply companies, and long shipping times, give EnMart a call and let us show you what we can do.   In the end, the decision about which thread will be used in your business belong to, you, the business owner.  All we can do is offer you a choice and a sample of Iris thread to try.

We’re quite confident that should be more than enough to help you make your decision.

About a week or so ago I posted a question on one of the forums that I frequent.  The question was about what EnMart calls thread palettes, and what others might call thread packages or thread collections.   The question was about whether or not people liked these sorts of collections and what would make them want to buy a thread palette.   One person answered my question and basically said that thread collections were a waste of money and a “gimmick” that thread manufacturers used to sell unpopular or unwanted thread.   The comment was polite, but pointed,  and it brought up a very real issue that some embroiderers may have with thread collections; an issue that it seemed that EnMart should address.

Please be aware that I can’t speak for other thread manufacturers nor would I presume to guess why they might or might not offer thread collections.  All I can do is tell you why EnMart created our thread palettes and why we offer them to you.

First of all, our thread palettes were created as a way to offer our customers complimentary shades of thread at a reduced price.  Palettes are generally priced between 15 and 20% below the retail price of buying each thread color separately.

Second, EnMart put together our thread palettes, particularly our holiday palettes, so our customers wouldn’t have to search for the thread they needed for a particular event.  Whether it’s St. Patrick’s Day,  a gift for a new baby, Easter or Christmas,  EnMart’s thread palettes allow you to find all the thread you need in one convenient package, eliminating search time.

Third, our thread palettes were created because we know some people like them.   Some people don’t feel that thread palettes are useful, and they’re certainly welcome to their opinions.  Other people, however, do like the collections and appreciate being able to buy thread at a bargain price.  One of our goals here at EnMart is, obviously, to sell thread.  Given that, we need to offer as many options for buying thread as possible.  Thread palettes are one way we do that.